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Top Picks: Winter 2021/22 Reviews

January 14, 2022

Reviews of 20 Washington-grown Rhône style wines, proving that Washington terroir is every bit as bold, brash and exciting as France’s. 
Field workers harvesting grapes at Lawrence Vineyards in central Washington where Rhône varietals thrive among various microclimates. Photo by William Muñoz.

Pacific Northwest winemakers fascinated with Côte du Rhône style wines are zeroing in on red single-varietals and blends from this genre that grow superbly in Washington’s diverse sandy and rocky soils. In this section, we feature 20 prime examples that will have you and your friends exclaiming with glee, “Mais oui!”

» Côte du Rhône Style Blends

Brian Carter Cellars 2016 Byzance
94 pts.

Inspired by wines from the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region, this offers seductive, ripe aromas with a whiff of singed cedar, evoking integrated flavors of cherry, blackberry and red berries. The mid-palate is packed with finessed details of white pepper, dried herbs and loamy earth. Elegantly powerful, ending with commanding focus and duration. $34
Specs: Grenache (58%), Syrah (19%), Mourvèdre (16%), Counoise (4%), Cinsault (3%); Columbia Valley AVA


Locus 2016 Sud
92 pts.

Minerally and steely in structure, brimming with vivacious red berries and cherry skin flavors backed by savory expressions of tobacco, thyme and fresh dug earth. Sinewy tannins weave through the finish with an uplifting, racy edge echoing with mineral spice. $22
Specs: Grenache (68%), Cinsault (17%), Syrah (15%); Conley Vineyard, Naches Heights AVA; 7 Mile Vineyard, Rattlesnake Hills AVA


Furion Cellars 2019 Wicces Basium
93 pts.

Opulent and powerfully structured, there’s lovely harmony between the complex layers of macerated blackberry, citrus peel, licorice, crushed rock and fresh loamy earth. Hints of dried herbs, mineral and spice notes drive the expressive finish. $35
Specs: Syrah (60%), Grenache (37%), Viognier (3%); Freewater Rocks Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley AVA


Owen Roe 2019 Sinister Hand
90 pts.

Juicy, with flashy structure and aromas of dark red fruit and forest floor. Black raspberry, plum, currant and cranberry tea flavors cruise along with iron minerality, dried herbs and black olive accents. Offers leather and lingering spice notes on the finish. $27
Specs: Syrah (57%), Grenache (18%), Mourvèdre (18%), White Rhone (5%), Cinsault (2%); Yakima Valley AVA


» G.S.M. (Classic blends of Grenache, Mourvèdre & Syrah)

Hard Row to Hoe 2017 GSM
94 pts.

A richly layered red, with enchanting cherry paste and boysenberry fruit combined with bramble and tobacco notes, dark earth details and peppercorn tinged with savory herbs. There’s a grippy tannic edge that teases the underlying power, yet the finish retains a fresh and finessed quality. $45
Specs: Grenache (50%), Mourvèdre (31%), Syrah (19%); Red Heaven Vineyard, Red Mountain AVA


Devison Vintners 2019 Above the Flood
94 pts.

Beautifully rendered in every facet, this is plush and textural. A beam of upfront acidity aligns with crushed rock and iron mineral notes, followed by expressive boysenberry and red stone fruit flavors filled in with cured black olive and lingering hints of charcuterie. Finishes as beguiling as it begins. $54
Specs: Grenache (48%), Syrah (34%), Mourvèdre (18%); Boushey and Weather Eye Vineyards


Columbia Winery 2018 Vision
93 pts.

Maintains a sense of refinement, leading with blackberry cobbler and plum tempered with red currant, baker’s chocolate, sage and tea notes. Seriously grippy on the brambly-accented and focused finish, echoing with extracted spice details that add everlasting polish. $45
Specs: Syrah (53%), Grenache (30%), Mourvèdre (17%); Six Prong Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills AVA


Northwest Cellars Yakima Valley 2016 Madrigal
92 pts.

Earth, leather and juniper berry notes align with plum and pie cherry flavors in this firm, snappy red. Bright raspberry surfaces on the energetic finish, complimented by touches of violet and garrigue. $28
Specs: Syrah (34%), Grenache (33%), Mourvèdre (33%); Yakima Valley AVA


» Syrah

Walter Dacon 2012 C’est Syrah Magnifique
92 pts.

This red is marvelously aged, enticing with generous blackberry, currant, dark chocolate and caraway aromatics that reveal a neatly-structured palate fronted by sweet oak, silky tannins. Cherry, blueberry and cranberry flavors intermingle with earthen spice and fresh bay leaf accents on the lengthy finish. $42
Specs: Syrah (100%); Rosebud Vineyard, Wahluke Slope AVA


Hawkins Cellars 2018 Reserve Syrah
92 pts.

Minerally driven, with a structure that’s commanding yet elegant, this red is forged with powder fine tannins inlaid with plum, black currant and white pepper. Lovely streaks of grapefruit peel flow through the mid-palate, backed with an earthy, spice-driven finish that displays great reverb. $42
Specs: Syrah (95%) co-fermented with Viognier (5%); Lonesome Spring Ranch Vineyard; Chandler Reach Vineyards, Yakima Valley AVA


Glacier View Cellars 2016 Red Mountain Syrah
92 pts.

Robust and richly spiced, yet well proportioned, this powerful red exudes a savory profile of blackberry, boysenberry, cedar boughs, baker’s chocolate and a slight trace of blood orange. Hints of charred earth and crushed vines push through the full-bodied finish. $36
Specs: Syrah (100%); Red Heaven Vineyard; Red Mountain AVA


Dunham Cellars 2019 Syrah
92 pts.

Concentrated, offering aromas of dark plum, dusty herbs, cured meat and spice. Fine tannins glide through the entry, joined by a broad spectrum of savory elements entrenched with macerated blackberry and red currant flavors. Dried basil, tobacco and crushed rock accents add range to the finish. $38
Specs: Syrah (100%); Lewis Estate, Phinny Hill and Kenny Hill Estate Vineyards


» Grenache

EFESTE 2019 Estate Grenache
93 pts.

Seamless inflections of rich dark berries and earthy components come together harmoniously in this concrete-aged version. Unctuous waves of black raspberry, strawberry and currant flavors forge with lovely mineral, spice and iron details that fan out with dusty tannins on the intriguing finish. $45
Specs: Grenache (100%); Angela’s Vineyard, Red Mountain AVA


Mercer 2016 Small Lot Grenache
93 pts.

Rich, with appealing polish and personality, delivering a range of succulent raspberry, jammy blackberry and white pepper flavors layered with hints of mandarin peel and savory accents. Impressive on the finish, with expansive depth and longevity. $32
Specs: Grenache (78%), Syrah (22%); Spice Cabinet Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills AVA


Palencia 2018 Grenache
92 pts.

Smoothly textured and crafted in a fruit driven style, offering appealing mulled edges of strawberry and ruby red grapefruit mingled with cherry and raspberry flavors, counterbalanced by a sachet of dried herbs. Uplifting structure on the midpalate carries through on the rich finish. $40
Specs: Grenache (100%); Canyon Ranch Vineyard, Yakima Valley AVA


Cougar Crest 2014 Estate Grenache
91 pts.

Leading with aromas of red berry, spice and rose tea, this is elegantly styled with bright notes that fill in with savory details. Forest floor, white pepper and wild strawberry flavors dominate the mid-palate, with saline and mineral hints that frame the finish. $32
Specs: Grenache (100%); Cougar Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley AVA


» Mourvèdre

Nota Bene Cellars 2017 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Mourvèdre
92 pts.

Silky, with a nice vibrancy underscoring minerally-driven flavors of blackberry, violet, peppercorn and suede. Accents of wild raspberry pick up along the finish, threaded with fine tannins and loamy earth notes. $30
Specs: Mourvèdre (100%); Heart of the Hill Vineyard, Red Mountain AVA


Maryhill Winery 2016 McKinley Springs Mourvèdre
93 pts.

Focused and enticingly structured, with savory pink peppercorn, floral tea, tanned leather and bay leaf aromas followed by flavors of crushed blackberry, cherry and a flash of wet stone. Warm spice notes flow through the well-defined finish. $44
Specs: Mourvèdre (100%); McKinley Springs Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills AVA


Sigillo Cellars 2019 Mourvèdre
92 pts.

Smooth and gracefully balanced, with forward blackberry, plum, currant and licorice flavors neatly layered with dried sage and spice notes. Lightly weighted tannins impart focus on the earthen-accented finish. Medium bodied with a delightfully Old World sense. $34
Specs: Mourvèdre (100%); Les Vignes Le Tendre Vineyard, Rosebud Vineyard; Yakima Valley AVA


Tucannon 2018 Yakima Valley Mourvèdre
90 pts.

A plump profile of plum sauce, pie cherry and cranberry are framed by leather, mint sprigs and brown sugar accents, with vibrant acidity and black pepper spice pulsing through the tangy finish. $41
Specs: Mourvèdre (100%); Vineyards: Tucannon Cellars, Des Estes Longs and Alder Ridge; Yakima Valley AVA

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Tasting Room® magazine is the ultimate authority on the Washington wine scene and your personal tour guide to wineries, vineyards, destinations and travel tips, and artisan foods, chefs and artists. In short, Tasting Room is a metaphor for life’s simple pleasures that pair remarkably well with wine—touring, food, travel, culture, recreation and people.

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