Third-generation farmers Doug and Sandy Rowell have spent their lives farming together in the Horse Heaven Hills with two of Sandy’s brothers, Rob and Scott Andrews. In 1980, the family started growing grapes, continuing to add vineyard blocks over the years. “Having the fourth generation start farming with us allowed me to get off the tractor and try something new,” says Doug Rowell. The vineyard has grown to two thousand acres tended carefully by grower Rob Andrews, supplying grapes to two dozen wineries including Columbia Crest, Northstar and Hogue.
The Rowells launched the winery in 2002 and went in search of a qualified winemaker. “We were fortunate to meet James Mantone of Syncline Cellars. We traded grapes for a winemaking education,” says Rowell, who worked four years at Syncline learning the trade. “In 2006 we built our winery on the farm and my wife Sandy and I have been making the wine since then.”
In the spring of 2015, McKinley Springs moved into the Winemakers Loft in Prosser’s Vintner’s Village (next to Coyote Canyon). Appointed in a relaxed Western theme, the tasting room is furnished with memorabilia and photographs from the good old days in honor of the family’s farming heritage. Below are three recent wines we tasted.
McKinley Springs Horse Heaven Hills 2011 Viognier, $16
Editor’s Choice – Excellent
Creamy and refreshing, with aromatics of floral honeysuckle and beeswax and integrated flavors of peach and apricot, blanched almond and spice with fine-tuned acidity.
Alcohol: 13.9%
McKinley Springs Horse Heaven Hills Estate Red Blend, $32
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding
A distinctive blend of Syrah (43%), Barbera (35%), Malbec (9%), Petit Verdot (9%), and Mourvèdre (9%). Vibrant and expressive, laced with flavors of cherry, blueberry and blackberry shaded with red currant, floral lavender, tobacco and white pepper. A blissfully food-friendly pairing.
Alcohol: 13.8%
McKinley Springs Horse Heaven Hills 2014 Rosé of Cabernet, $18
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding
Full, off-dry and complex, with a core of earthy minerality that runs through Sangria-like fruit flavors of dried red berries, strawberry, orange peel and lime. Refreshing, with sleek acidity.
Alcohol: 14.2%
Website: www.mckinleysprings.com