Brett and Denise Isenhower are the rare couple that make wine together, along with handling the many details involved in running a thriving family winery—yet they always take time to get to know their customers, many on a first name basis. During harvest they may walk you through the barrel room of the Walla Walla production facility, showing you what fruit is being crushed and sorted and explaining the fermentation process. If you’re lucky they’ll even throw in a sample of pressed wine, or a sample straight from the barrel. When school isn’t in session you may even find the three Isenhower daughters (Eliana, age 9, Keegan, age 11, and Olivia, age 14) playing or helping out their parents.
Joining a handful of other wineries making the trek to woo Leavenworth visitors with boutique wines, Isenhower’s newest tasting room is in the Wine Cellar complex in the heart of this Bavarian-themed resort town nestled on the eastern slope of the Cascade Mountains.
As if destiny played a fast-track role in their lives, the couple met at an Indianapolis hospital where they were both working as pharmacists. They married in 1995, fell in love with wine shortly thereafter, and by 1998 had moved to Walla Walla to pursue their winemaking dream “because it is the prettiest town in Eastern Washington,” says Denise.
Brett has an appreciation for the history of winemaking and the cultural impacts of wine on Western civilization. “I love that a wine from a place is unique and individual,” he says.
They crushed their first 17 tons of grapes in 1999. “We picked up winemaking tips from UC Davis short courses, voraciously read many winemaking textbooks, listened to smart winemakers, and learned quickly from our mistakes,” says Denise. She insists they are not defined as a “Walla Walla” winery because they purchase grapes from vineyards not just in Walla Walla, but throughout the Columbia Valley, including the Yakima Valley and the Horse Heaven Hills.
Isenhower Cellars’ wines are plush, smooth and light-footed yet sweepingly complex, a nod to their native yeast fermentation technique and careful hands-on approach in the cellar. You can find their top-notch releases at the three tasting rooms located in Walla Walla, Woodinville or Leavenworth.
Walla Walla: 3471 Pranger Rd, Walla Walla
Woodinville: 15007 Redmond-Woodinville Rd NE #1, Woodinville
Leavenworth: The Wine Cellar, 217 9th St, Ste C, Leavenworth
www.isenhowercellars.com
5 Recent Releases
Isenhower Cellars 2014 Batchelor’s Button Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $36
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
Rich and polished, with a mesquite edge lining the blackberry and dried raspberry flavors infused with fine-grained tannins. Earthy shadings of tobacco leaf and dried herbs stretch out on the satisfying finish.
Isenhower Cellars 2015 Rara Avis Grenache, $36
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
This Grenache was boosted with Mourvedre (21%) and Syrah (4%) for added depth. Plush, complex and brooding, loaded with tarry edges of rock, earth and leather notes that flow through black raspberry and pomegranate flavors. Bright accents of orange citrus and floral tea meld into the abundant finish showing peppercorn spice mixed with stony minerality.
Isenhower Cellars 2015 Road Less Traveled Cabernet Franc, $36
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
Light footed and bright, this velvety smooth version is broad and spicy, exuding dried herbs of oregano, sage and bay leaf punctuated with white pepper notes coursing through vibrant berry and red currant flavors. Pancetta, gravel and earthen spice details resonate through the upbeat finish.
Isenhower Cellars 2016 Walla Walla Valley Viognier, $22
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
Gorgeously aromatic with enticing tropical fruit scents of mango, pineapple, orange blossom and honey that echo on the creamy palate, joined with dazzling vibrance of lime zest, tangerine and kiwi. Ends with distinctive spice, crushed pebble and pretty orange blossom floral notes.
Isenhower Cellars 2016 Yakima Valley Roussanne, $22
Editor’s Choice – Outstanding (91-94 pts.)
This white wine was pressed whole cluster and barrel fermented on the lees in neutral oak for seven months prior to bottling. Luscious aromas burst from the glass, with distinctive bouquet of honeysuckle, apricot, white peach, pear, melon and hints of orange peel. The mouthfeel is crisp and refreshing, displaying profiles of lemon noil, grapefruit essence, apricot and melon rind. Finishes dry with complex notes of vine stem and spice.