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Paradise On The Lake At Tsillan Cellars

May 4, 2010

Tsillan Cellars Winery will sweep you away with the romance and grandeur of a hillside Tuscan villa retreat overlooking Lake Chelan

“Imagine the addition of an Italian-style piazza here,” said Bob Jankelson, owner of Tsillan Cellars Winery & Vineyards.  Jankelson was highlighting his plans for the winery as I alternated between scribbling notes in my journal and spearing ravioli on my dinner plate.  I couldn’t help but notice the zeal in his eyes and the passion in his voice.  It was infectious.  I pictured an open plaza surrounded by artisan shops with a Tuscan fountain as its centerpiece; kids scampering about, dogs wagging their tails, and old men tossing bocce balls.

I mistakenly thought that because Tsillan (pronounced “Chelan”) Cellars was already a destination winery, located on the south shore of Lake Chelan, it had reached its potential for grandeur.  However, that is not the case.  The winery has arrived at a juncture in its evolution, and if Jankelson gets his way (and this observer wouldn’t wager otherwise), Tsillan Cellars will become a year-round resort for wine-loving tourists.  At age 70, Jankelson is exceptionally youthful.  That youthfulness, together with his vision for Tsillan Cellars, fosters a positive outlook on life.  You sense that he’s just getting started.

Second Wave Of Pioneers

Back in 2000, Jankelson replaced 135 acres of Red Delicious apples with premium wine grapes and launched Tsillan Cellars Winery & Vineyards.  Although Italian immigrant families had grown European wine grapes in the Lake Chelan area during the 1800s, there were few acres of Vitis vinifera in the region at the turn of this century.  Jankelson and a handful of other growers were the second wave of viticultural pioneers in the region.  From the start, Jankelson wanted visitors to experience the taste of this region’s wine amidst great scenery and architectural splendor.  He succeeded by building a Tuscan-inspired villa ensconced on the hill; it serves as the winery’s headquarters and houses a palatial tasting room for visitors.

The villa is a place to linger and enjoy life’s pleasures; drive-by wine tourists needn’t bother slowing down.  General manager Ken Cain’s relaxed charm and customer-centric philosophy are reflected in the tasting room staff hospitality.  The room’s warm Mediterranean colors invite novice tasters and connoisseurs alike to relax and take their time sampling the full portfolio of reds and whites offered.  Feel free to ask questions, about Tsillan’s winemaking process, the source of its grapes or suggestions for food-wine pairings.  Time seems to slow down here. You can concentrate and discover which estate wines you like—with or without Pavarotti vocalizing in the background.

A Special Love Of Italy

Jankelson, who was a dentist by profession before becoming enamored with the grape, has a special love for Italy, having made 47 separate sojourns to that country over the years.  The winery’s Italian-style architecture was no casual decision.  As you turn off the highway and make your way up the gentle hill to Tsillan Cellars, you spy the majestic 35-foot-tall campanile housing a 650-pound cast-bronze bell.  The surrounding vineyard contains Syrah, Merlot, Malbec, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer grapes.  At the end of each vineyard row, rose bushes add an element of elegance.  Not far from the tasting room is the spectacular amphitheater, which includes three waterfalls framing an island stage on which musicians perform during summer concerts.  It’s the Lake Chelan version of Italy’s Lake Como, and it works.

Nationally Acclaimed Wine

Inside, the spacious 3,000-square-foot tasting room features a wine bar stretching 40 feet in length.  No need to rub elbows with strangers here. Behind the bar is plenty of cellar space to house many of the 7,000 cases of wine produced annually.  According to Jankelson, “The vast majority of our wine is sold right out of the tasting room or through our wine club. The relationship is one-on-one with our customers, and we love that feeling of intimacy with our consumers.” To this end, Ken Cain and his staff display exceptional adeptness along with patient smiles as they respond to myriad visitors wondering how to pronounce “gewürztraminer.”

In terms of the quality of its wines, Tsillan Cellars can go to the front of the class.  Since 2008, Tsillan Cellars has racked up more than 50 gold and double gold medals in major wine competitions throughout the U.S.  Clearly, something wonderful is going on here.  Now under the direction of winemaker Shane Collins, a native of nearby Manson, Tsillan’s future shines bright.

Sorrento’s Italian Dining

If you are going to uncork a bottle of Tsillan’s estate wine, you will require good food to complement your beverage of choice.  Enter Sorrento’s Ristorante, located on the Tsillan property and featuring both indoor and outdoor seating areas.  Owners/chefs Jerry and Gennaro Criscuolo come from a long line of Italian restaurateurs whose ristorante originated in Sorrento, Italy.  More recently, they owned one of the most successful Italian restaurants/pizzerias in San Francisco.  To paraphrase the old adage, “The proof of the cream of tomato basil soup is the eating!”  And this first course was heaven on earth.  Once I’d finished slurping the soup, I partook of the thickly sliced calamari paired with Tsillan’s Columbia Valley Piccolo Rosso.  The wine’s spice and black cherry notes were the perfect balance for the squid.  For the main course, I recommend loosening your belt and ordering the jumbo ravioli, as I did.  By this time, another glass of wine was in order, and I went for the award-winning Tsillan Cellars Estate Syrah. Powerful, nicely balanced and full-flavored—I chose wisely.

Italian Lakeside Village

As the evening wound down, I continued to marvel at Bob Jankelson’s energy.  He still looked fresh; despite what obviously was a long day, he appeared ready to go for another.  “Does this guy sleep?” I wondered.  As I sipped a petite pour of the Dolcezza d’Oro Estate Riesling, I realized that it takes more than energy to create a wine village. It takes guts. Sure, having deep pockets is a prerequisite, but most wealthy mortals would be happy to retire and work on their putting game.  Not Bob Jankelson.  He eschews notions of retirement and continues to embellish on his own Italian village here on a hillside in Lake Chelan. I, for one, can’t wait to toss coins in the village fountain with a glass of Tsillan Cellars wine in hand.

Written by Steve Roberts


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Tasting Room® magazine is the ultimate authority on the Washington wine scene and your personal tour guide to wineries, vineyards, destinations and travel tips, and artisan foods, chefs and artists. In short, Tasting Room is a metaphor for life’s simple pleasures that pair remarkably well with wine—touring, food, travel, culture, recreation and people.

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