Lifelong buddies since college, Jonathan Edelman and Dan Sogg launched Foolhardy Vintners in 2016, united by “a shared wine aesthetic.” Selling mostly through distributors, they recently opened a tasting room in historic downtown Walla Walla (in the former Elephant Seven Winery location), several short blocks from The Marcus Whitman Hotel. The spacious tasting room is both bright and modern, with various seating options for groups of one to eight people (or more if booked in advance with the winery).
The co-owners bring a valuable combination of skillsets to the game. Jonathan attended professional culinary school in France and worked in Michelin-starred restaurants. Upon his return to the States and stints in the kitchen, he changed course and dived into the tech world for two decades. He also spent ten years working harvest at a winery in Burgundy prior to starting Foolhardy.
Dan Sogg started in the wine industry right out of college, working for a retail importer in Boston. Subsequently, he spent a vintage in Bordeaux, receiving a crash course in the vineyards and cellar. For nine years, he was an editor and critic at Wine Spectator, focusing on the wines of California and New Zealand. Since 2009, he has been in charge of sales in North America for Tonnellerie Cavin, a high-end cooperage located in Burgundy. Working for Spectator and Cavin provided access to many of the world’s great wineries, both in the US and Europe.
Jonathan and Dan are especially fond of fruit from “old vine” vineyards, citing they bring “added intensity and energy” to the wines. Their grower partners include Red Willow, Bacchus, Elephant Mountain and other A-list vineyards. There is nothing foolhardy about this winery in the slightest. The wines show a maturity and intellect that speak to the singular nature of the older vineyard sites, as well as a dynamism that reflects the special care put into each of of these small-lot wines. Worth the drive to Walla Walla.
Visit the tasting room at 134 W Poplar St, Walla Walla; phone or text (917) 533-6275. Check seasonal hours at www.foolhardyvintners.com.
Below are three releases we recently reviewed:
Foolhardy Vintners 2021 Bacchus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines
95 pts.
Crafted from Block 10 of Bacchus Vineyard planted in 1972, this structured red is remarkably lithe yet concentrated, with a silky feel. There’s a striking infusion of deep-rock, polished minerality tethered to finely burnished tannins and seamless red and black currants, blackberry, violet and warm cedar details. Ends with exceptional length and complexity. Only 47 cases produced. $80
Foolhardy Vintners 2021 Malbec Walla Walla Valley
94 pts.
Native fermented in used French oak barrels, this distinctive red is broad and nimble, yet over delivers on personality. Full flavors of black plum, violet and blackberry find an extra punch of complexity with exotic spice details of Moroccan cardamom, black pepper, crushed cocoa nib and a subtle nuance of turmeric. Great verve and texture. $59.95
Foolhardy Vintners 2023 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley
92 pts.
Sourced from the caliche-rich soils of Evergreen Vineyard, there’s racy tension between the tangy citrus and mouthwatering minerality. The palate is chock full of gooseberry, lime zest, grapefruit and lemongrass that burst through the vibrant finish lined with chalk and oyster shell notes. $30